Girnar Lili Parikrama

It was my decade-old wish to go for Girnar's Lili Parikrama near Junagadh, which finally realized in 2013 - the year of good monsoon..

Parikrama Route

Very little information is available on the net about the Parikrama. We got some information from a few other sources. Half of the information was ambiguous at best, and rest were contradicting to each other. The worst part is, it turned out that all were wrong (almost all, to be precise). Most of the articles in various news (web and print) are majorly copy-pasted material (from Gujarat Tourism website) - without being informative enough. 

No, the parikarama is not 36km. No, the whole trek is not lit as some rumoured (which is good, in fact). No, the trek is not flat as some suggests. No, people typically don't take 5 days, on the other hand, nor you can finish it in less than 12 hours (if you are not athlete type, i guess). 

This serious lack of useful information is one of the main reasons for writing this blog. The idea is to provide concise, true and helpful information about the fantastic parikarama instead of letting it be only travelogue. Hence, i have decided to let this post to be comprehensive at expense of it falling in TL; DR category.

Vikram samvat 2070, Kartik Sud Baras (14 Nov 2013), 5:55 am: We (my friend Manish and i) walked out of Junagadh railway station after overnight journey from Ahmedabad. Found a chhakdo rikshaws just outside the station. While the driver waited for other passengers, the rhythmic beats from the powerful diesel engine was filling up the void of unknown that was in our minds about the parikrama.

The rikshaw dropped us at taleti (mountain base) parking area which is very close to Bhavnath temple. It was a little over 6:15 am. The sky was still dark, the land was glittering with lights of street-side stalls, the atmosphere was filled by loud-speakers playing bhajans and appeals encouraging donation for cows, and the whole scene was blurred by clouds of dust unsettled by constant flow of yatris (=hikers) reciting "Jay Girnari" in chorus. We decided to kick-start our trek with double dose of tea at a stall while we arranged our gadgets.

The whole route is well surrounded by various types of vegetation and trees, clearly dominated by saag trees (teak wood trees). Occasionally the route intersects little rivers, or stream of water (because of good monsoon). Don't expect to spot much of wildlife except monkeys. With such a huge crowd, animals as well as birds would go deep inside the jungle.

There are lots of anna-kshetras (philanthropic food courts), and private makeshift stalls providing food, water, lemonade, etc. The philanthropic organizers also arrange for large tents with mattresses and blankets for yatris to stay for night at various places. However, with such a huge crowd not everyone can be accommodated in tents. So most of the people make night halts along the route on pieces of flat lands, which is in fact more fun.

Overall it was very good experience to participate in the Lili Parikrama. Physically exhausting.  Memorable outing. Connecting to slow-pace-lifestyled wisdom-filled hardworking rural India (99% of participants are villagers). Spending time in jungle. Being part of age-old phenomenon of the parikrama.

Looking at each other

Random picture

River intersecting parikrama route

Sadhu

Yatris, not trekkers

Timing and Accessibility

• Lili Parikrama officially starts every year on Kartik Sud Agiyaras (mostly 11th day after Diwali) for 5 days, ending on Kartik Sud Poonam. 
• The route passes through forest area and it is prohibited to enter in it except the days of parikrama.
• For organizers of anna-kshetra and resting tents, the administration allows entry a few days prior to the parikrama. Also, once parikrama is done, social workers and volunteers clean the parikrama trek. 
• You can reach Junagadh via road or rail. From the city you need to get to Parikrama starting point near Bhavnath mandir (taking rikshaw is easiest)

Security & Safety

• There is heavy deployment of policemen in Junagadh, near taleti (base), and at various points across the route.
• General atmosphere in the yatris is a combination of religious + adventurous + joyous. We didn't experience nor heard of any nuisance. However, individuals should take care of themselves and their belongings.
• I am sure police camps would have medical supplies across the route. However, depending on where one gets injured or ill, it might take a few minutes to a few hours to get the help. I strongly recommend taking first-aid in your backpack (it can come handy for yourself or others).

Food and water

• Across the route, there are dozens of anna-kshetras (philanthropic food courts), and many more private vendors with makeshift stalls. Taste and quality of food depends on where you have it. In our experience, food in anna-kshetras was far better than private stalls in taste as well as in quality.
• There are various parabs (water stations), lemonade stalls, tea stalls to keep yatris hydrated.
• Only at a few places we found the drinking water to be clean. We drank water which visibly was not clean, and many a times had weird smell (however, it didn't affect our health adversely). The forest department is trying to provide clean water, but there is practical limit of what they can currently do.
  It should be kept in mind that the route passes through places in the forest area tough for such arrangements.

Drinking water spots by Forest dept

Geography and the route

• The route is not flat or very easy as some rumored. There are four major ascents. First and last one is gradual and easy, while second ascent is intimidating (gaining elevation of 750m in span of 1100m). Third hill is pretty steep too, but less than half in height. However, if you are finishing most of the trek in single day, the third hill will also seem intimidating because of fatigue.
  The route rating can be between moderate to tough.
• Significant portion of the route is rocky and might cause pain in feet. Having extra in-sole will be helpful.
• The ACTUAL length is 27.79 km (NOT 36 km as published everywhere).
• Total ascent (total climb) is 1276 m (1.2 km).
• Max elevation (highest peak) is 457m from sea level
• Min elevation (lowest point) is 61m from sea level

Elevation

Unsettled dust seen over trees

Wildlife

• Due to heavy rush of people, most of the wildlife disappear into deep jungle.
• When we stopped for night-halt, we learnt that a lion was spotted 2 days earlier at exactly same location when anna-kshetra organizers were arranging stalls. Later while we were about to sleep, we heard that a snake was seen at a few meter's distance.
• We never heard of people having close encounter or being injured by any wild animals in parikrama.
• However, one must be ready for possible consequences of trekking through jungle (on-track injuries, insects-bites or animal encounters).

Is it for you? Who should go?

• If you are very health and hygiene conscious, don't participate in parikrama.
• If you are prone to allergies, better don't participate without prior med consultation.
• If you have knee, leg or back issues, better don't participate or plan to complete parikrama over a few days.
• If you don't like being in jungle or freak-out upon the possibility of putting yourself in vulnerable position, don't participate.
• There is pretty heavy participation of females of all ages (mostly rural though).
• Everyone else should go for the parikrama at least once. If done nicely, it will be a memorable experience for years to come.

Will matters, Age doesn't - picture taken near the highest pick on parikrama

Tips

• Best year for taking part in parikrama would be the year of good monsoon.
• Arrange for travel to Junagadh well in advance. State transport arranges for extra buses every year.
• Group size: We were just two-persons team, but going in group of 5-15 would be more memorable and comfortable (of course, if you have good group, else lesser the better).
• Duration: We finished the parikrama in approx 26 hours, including a night halt and long breaks. If time permits, ideal would be 3days 2nights.
• Backback should include:
• First aid + energy powers / glucose  
• Food is available at various places, but it is advisable to take some along (chocolates, or other high fat sweets are good options)
• Take one or two water bottles so you can keep filling it at water spots.
• Take a heavy duty touch or portable emergency light
• Keep basic safety items like a knife, matchbox, rope, etc. along
• Nights are pretty chilling, so have warm cloths as per your cold resistance
• Take some bed-sheet or blanket to spread on ground and cover yourself during night halt.
• If you are travelling in a large group, and planning to complete parikrama over a few days, take some utensils using which you can cook your own food (there are temporary markets for people to buy vegs and fruits).
• Before you enter the route of parikrama, there are shops selling all kinds of items including bamboo sticks. It is recommended to have one (especially if you lead an idle life). Like all other good things in life, initially it might feel extra burden, but it will turn out to be very helpful later.
• Take an extra plastic bag to keep all waste which would else pollute the forest (like wrappers of food items, energy drinks etc).
• Make sure you do not disturb wildlife, damage plants and trees or pollute the forest.
• Enjoy!

People resting and making night halts in jungle on parikrama route

Faith

Bonfires at night halt

If you are not prepared enough, this is how you will have to sleep

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